Vikos Gorge (Northern Greece), 11-15 August 2017
Day 2
Realising the pitfall in our planning, the time of year, we decided that it would be most sensible to get into a routine of going to bed early and getting up early in order to avoid the worst of the heat. After a short walk up to Papigo and a quick breakfast/coffee, we made our way to Mikro Papigo.
A shortcut in the road leads over a stone bridge, which was fascinating and remains in good condition given its 17th century origin.
From Mikro Papigo, a path (once again the O3 footpath) leads through the wood up towards Astraka.
After a short while, the trees become sparse and then disappear altogether, leaving an exposed grassy slope, not ideal with the sun beating down to us.
However, given the popularity of the route, it is well maintained and there are 4 sheltered points on the slope. 3 of these have springs and another just provides a sheltered picnic table.
The shelters also have map boards, so you can follow your progress as you climb the vertical kilometer. It took us 4:30 hours to reach Astraka from Mikro Papigo. The hut is well looked after, we booked in advance and the refuge ran out of space, so booking is advised. The hut cost us €13 each and had plugs to charge phones, sold food, and even had 1 shower (albeit cold). The meals there are well priced (considering the location) and filling.
The view from the refuge (away from Papigo). Drakolimni (Dragon Lake) is up the slope, left of the cliffs.
The refuge claims the walk to the lake is 1:20 each way, we went without packs and managed it quicker. The lake is beautiful, the views spectacular and the water much warmer than at Voidimatis, so very swimmable.
The still water allows for perfect reflections.
The view from the far side of the lake. The flat mountain to the right of centre is Smolikas, the second highest mountain in Greece.
We got back to the refuge in time for the sunset which filled the sky full of oranges and pinks.
Most people go to the refuge and stay for a couple of days and visit the Dragon lake, Astraka, Gamila etc. If you have a spare day, staying in Astraka is a good way to spend it.